Frida Kahlo evokes Chicago’s north-side at La Cocina de Frida

If you are a regular reader of this blog, then you are fully aware of my deep and abiding interest, fascination, obsession, or passion with culture. I write about the phenomena of religion, violence, narrative, identity formation and politics. Though having been trained as a theologian, I write from a philosophical and feminist anthropological perspective these days. I write to democratize and socialize ideas.

Note: I don’t much write about the culture of a restaurant or its political implications. Today’s post is doing just that, however: I’m creating a bridge to speak about the meaningful and beautiful things of life, as I have experienced it around food, and in particular, La Cocina de Frida.

You may have even seen a nudge to check out a certain cool/sustainable coffee shop or even to try a pizza outfitter here in Chicago, in Denver, or elsewhere that I have visited. What I have NEVER done is right a review of a restaurant from a cultural and/or feminist perspective. Today, however, I am doing such a thing! Crazy? Perhaps! Evocative? I sure hope so!

If you’re in Chicago, and you have any interest in creative space, Frida Kahlo, family run/women run businesses, good food, or the subtext of eroticism, then you MUST check out La Cocina de Frida. I first “heard” of this restaurant by the signs that indicated that a restaurant was “opening soon.” I wondered what really would emerge in the middle of Andersonville, a once Swedish immigrant and now Lesbian friendly neighborhood on the north-side of Chicago. Being from Texas and having a particular affinity for all things Latina/mestiza, the thought of possibilities stirred me–evoked me.

The restaurant premiered on the Chicago restaurant scene mid-January 2008, in what I think has been the hardest and most difficult winters I have experienced, since moving to Chicago from Texas in 2002. I “googled” the restaurant to see if there were vegetarian options. At the time when I looked up the restaurant, the website listed the cell-phone number for Marlene Benitez, owner of La Cocina de Frida who is journeying with her sister, Lidia, in this restaurant adventure. I telephoned the number from my office phone, but realizing that it was almost time for me to leave for the day, I left my cell-phone number. It was opening night for the restaurant and I desperately wanted to go! But first, I needed to know if there was anything for me to eat! I was really hoping that someone would return my phone call, and, to my delight, the Frida Fighter, Marlene, did!

I found our phone conversation to be inviting, unpretentious, and celebratory! The way in which Marlene urged me to give the restaurant a try and her invitation to “ask for anything vegetarian” quickly provoked me to add this restaurant to my list of MUST EATS. I didn’t make it on opening night, but I did go for a weekend dinner.

My First Visit…I enjoyed a margarita, which is not something I typically order as I’m a beer girl! But, there was something really special and evocative about my initial encounter with the space and the folks out on the floor. After all, I hadn’t even tried their food, but I was going to consume a margarita? Where did I think I was? Transported to my family’s home in Monterrey amidst the mountain ranges that we could see from their front yard pool? Perhaps! Because, in my heart, I was suddenly home.

The margarita, guacamole, and the vegetarian Bomba [a mixture of veggies and some pineapple & chile de árbol salsa] was amazing. The service was beautiful, and Marlene was quite the host! From that fateful day in January on the phone to that first dining experience, I knew I had found a place where I would take everyone!

I must admit that I am really biased to Mexican food. Its the food on which I was raised, and its the culture that is closest to my heart. Its been the philosophy of Spaniards and Mexicans, particularly the voices of women [albeit silenced] that constantly urge me to fight for justice on the intellectual and academic front. And, it has been the food that evokes me to experience the beauties of life, putting good tastes and warm & lovely feelings in my heart.

For me, my experiences at La Cocina de Frida parallel with my connections with all things Latin America. It is the food, ambiance, and adventure that brought me to fall in love with Mexico and my family there, and now its a restaurant that will enliven and sustain that for me! There is something really important and historical , I think, about women creating space. This restaurant very well could become Food for Life!

The strength of women/womyn is seen in this restaurant. You have Lidia running the kitchen and working tirelessly to have the best tasting and freshest food available. And, on the other end of things, there is Marlene! Marlene is the public face for La Cocina de Frida, and she is exceptional! While Lidia stirs the ever delicate Molé, Marlene is stirring the souls of her customers which is both lovely and quite evocative.

Since I had never EVER written any sort of “restaurant review,” I decided to email Marlene to ask some practical questions. Being of the academic vein, I don’t so much think in practicalities. I think in complex sentences and complexities that turn off most folks. And so, since I did want to post a review concerning the restaurant and the space, I thought I should be practical. These are the questions that are oftentimes part of dinner conversations around my house:

First, location, location, location…I wanted to know: Why Andersonville?

Andersonville is my favorite neighborhood in Chicago. I love the fact that the Chamber welcomes unique businesses instead of chains. The community is incredibly supportive of neighborhood businesses and they are constantly giving back to their community. Andersonville always has something going on. I use to eat at the former Angel’s and I fell completely in love with the patio. I instantly saw it’s potential, I knew I had to be in Andersonville and hopefully in that space. The rest is fate, it was meant to happen and it did!

Secondly, in a city where FOOD is the trump card…I wanted to know: Why a Restaurant?

Frida loved to cook, loved to entertain and loved to make everyone feel very special. In my family, we have always been that way. It’s in our blood to love the kitchen, love the people, and make them feel incredible. A restaurant allows us to do just that.

My mother has always owned her own businesses and most of them have been in the food industry. We grew up with that.

And, Thirdly, working with family…I desperately wanted to know: Why do it with Family?

I come from a very close familia. We all support each other in our endeavors and this was no exception. My sister Lidia enjoys the back of the house and I work the front of the house.

I will always include my family in my life accomplishments. We both have been through thick and thin with la Cocina de Frida. It has been all worth it though!

I appreciated Marlene’s thoughtful answers to my questions. I have since had the occasion to learn a bit more about La Cocina de Frida and the journey of Lidia and Marlene. The word on the street is that La Cocina de Frida will be going as GREEN as possible. That’s right! The restaurant, under the leadership of “forward-thinking/critical thinking” Marlene, plans to begin recycling as much as they can, starting with glass bottles. And, as spring and summer approach, the restaurant will seek to implement recycled plates for their patio seating. I have learned that their coffee is from Saugatuck, MI and it is Organic. Apparently, its a special blend of beans, and its quite delicious. Their house wine is from Chilé and won the Silver Prize from a San Antonio, TX wine competition. I’m originally from San Antonio, so this makes me especially proud!

In terms of the menu:
I should mention that anything on the menu can be revised/ ammended/ adapted to be vegetarian, despite MetroMix’s review that there aren’t enough veggie options. TimeOut Chicago gave La Cocina de Frida 3 forks out of 6, but I give them all the forks I have, which is certainly more than 6! Its a great space, with great food, and fabulous energy. And, if you happen to be in the mood for a weekend brunch, they have absolutely fabulous breakfast/brunch items! If I could spend my days there, I would!

Perhaps its the spirit of Frida or the beautiful folks that makes this space/place so damn inviting! This is a relational restaurant with potential far beyond the other restaurants in the area. Currently, the restaurant is offering their opening menu, which is small but manageable! They did have a “special” Tequila menu for Valentines Day, which was able to be adapted for vegetarians. It was a lovely platter that was served! I’m hoping that once things get settled, their menu will become much larger and will include items from Guadalupe’s Garden Menu. This was one of those inside hints for the vegetarians who would like to eat at La Cocina de Frida.

Viva La Cocina de Frida?! YES!! YES!! I’ve been back several times since that initial dining experience, and I plan to keep going back….I can’t get her out of my head!

I hope you’ll try it, and perhaps you’ll be touched by the Spirit of Frida and all things Latina!

Frida Kahlo: impulsive, brilliant, critical, & beautiful. La Cocina de Frida: All of the above and SO MUCH MORE! Check it out! 5403 N. Clark St. Chicago, IL 60640. You can reach the Frida Fighters at: 773/271.1907. I can only imagine that the last four digits of the restaurant’s phone is 1907, because Frida Kahlo was born July 6, 1907! I’m a July baby…we find madness in our own way!

p.s. And, if you’re of the academic brand who gets turned on by smart women…Marlene’s read Jean Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, & Friedrich Nietzsche. I love the food, but that right there is reason enough to check her out!